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Review by: David Schildknecht
Wine Advocate: Issue 172, August 2007
Rating: 92 POINTS

Joly's 2004 Savennieres Roche-aux-Moines Clos de la Bergerie displays a striking aroma of apricot, fresh quince, almond paste, chicken stock, chalk dust, and musky florality the sort of smells that makes you wonder that they could come from grapes, which I suppose Joly would argue that they don't really, Chenin being but the vehicle for expressing terroir and cosmic forces. Firmer, juicier and less flattering in texture than its Clos Sacres stable mate (though faintly oily), this saturates the palate with poached apricot, apricot kernel, pineapple, raspberry preserves, almond paste, and toasted pecan, yet without suggesting more than subtle sweetness. In fact, it manages to display intense ripeness while preserving a certain underlying austerity, here conveyed in the finish by an adamant tone of wet stone rather than the more diverse mineral display of the Clos Sacres. (Nor is there a trace of heat from this wine's advertised 14.5% alcohol.)
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